Rock climbing tips reddit Find a person or group who's working on a problem that's in your grade range (it's okay if's its a little above or a little below) and start climbing near them. I know what you mean. Re-injury is a big thing on my mind, so I focus on how to support my weight and move up the wall with as little strength as possible. this subreddit is awesome. The difference between bouldering and lead climbing has been shrinking during the last decade, especially since 2019. The book Rock Climbing Technique; The Practical Guide to Movement Mastery by John Kettle provides specific exercises to practice each building block of technique, starting from the most basic. I’ve only been climbing for a few weeks so bear with me here. 5 hours and then train for 1. When I started climbing, I learned a lot from Movement For Climbing on YT. The edge of the tape gets caught on the rock and lifted up or tears. 36M I've been climbing since 2017, mostly indoors, and took some time off from early 2020 into 2021 I restarted climbing mid-2021 around V3/V4 and recently broke thru to climb V5 about six weeks ago the problem with hangboard and newbies is: you can do pretty bad stuff easily. My weight is probably the biggest issue, I am 210 lbs @ 5’9 but a lot of it is muscle (powerlifting background). That is one reason people will file their skin before climbing. Reddit's rock climbing training community. Also climbing outside is a lot more fun because sit starts are made for you and you fit in smaller spaces. I find it very helpful to have the techniques broken down so I can learn each part before putting them together. P. It's also just a generally friendly group of people. It happens to me all the time. Look up videos on youtube for good climbing technique (or have someone teach you). Learn about injury prevention. I like having things written down, so I made notes of the relevant information from the video (and some of the comments made by others) and thought I'd share it here. ), regular dry needling from my physiotherapist, wearing a compression sleeve while climbing (though I know that’s a Posted by u/thonic - 2 votes and 5 comments I don't know how well this works with rock climbing but my first real vertical climbing was on ice. Climbing gyms are for climbing, not explicitly socializing. Hi! I'm looking for some advice on things I can do inside and outside of the gym to improve my climbing with minimal risk of injury. Take a lead class at the local rope gym. true. Buy a guide a few times. ) To keep it simple, you could do three weeks of focusing on hard moves for two of your sessions, along with strength training for one of your sessions. I’m sure he has videos about overhung climbing. - get this book, "Rock Climbing Technique: The Practical Guide to Movement Mastery" and start practicing the techniques - find a project. Join a local climbing club. Personal background. 2 questions: When I tape my fingertips I find the tape keeps sliding off or loosening after only a little climbing. Then take a week with reduced load, then for the next 3 weeks focus on endurance and technique drills from “Rock Climbing Technique: The Practical Guide to Movement Mastery” and 4x4s twice a Yeah, this is overlooked. The "just climb" mantra normally comes up when new climbers people think they need more grip strength on a v3. if your gym uses Kaya app, check out other ppl's beta, mimic it, understand why it doesn't work for you or why it worked for you I just started rock climbing 3 months ago, so far I can do most V3s and I've done 4 V4s. Thinner skin that is 30% humidity seems to be a good place to be for performance rock climbing. i weightlift regularly and recently started climbing 2 days a week. As far as tips: Use your legs. r/climbharder: Reddit's rock climbing training community. I can do some at my gym but even then some V1’s are still fairly difficult. 5. Climbing is a skill sport, and you'll only improve the skill of climbing by pressuring yourself and your skills. If you can do BOTH and also make sure you are recovering well, then rock on. A plateau is a stagnation in climbing progress (not measured just by grades, but also by benchmarks and relative climbing performance) which lasts for an extended period of time, most people use one full year as the threshold. I learned to build anchors in Joshua Tree, set up my first top rope in Red Rock, learned to lead on sport in Tucson, and really got to push myself in Boulder, Moab, Smith Rock, etc. Please understand that rock climbing is an extremely dangerous activity. I used to get really bad tendinitis in my biceps, brachialis and brachioradialis, and pretty much have zero issues with those areas now. They've just recently started a series looking at boulder training with Adam Ondra. I had a hip/back injury a couple months back and have slowly been getting back to the gym. think hard. Starting out is always a fun and excited experience but it can sometimes be very daunting. I’m at a V1 and wanting to work up to V2’s. If you're climbing 5. The biggest thing I would say is go with a group that knows what they're doing, but it sounds like that's covered. Rock Climbing Technique: The Practical Guide to Movement Mastery by John Kettle - A book of exercises to improve climbing movement. I'm going to a mandatory 1-2-1 introduction session this Thursday and was wondering what to expect. INJURY PREVENTION. So my week is Monday: Lift Tuesday: Lift Wednesday: Lift Thursday: Climb Friday: Lift Saturday: Climb Sunday: Rest / Yin Yoga Is there a better way to split to get better preformance in climbing? Any tips for beginners? I also mobility train every day. 3. I've met my best climbing buddies when I've been at the gym during really slow times. Grip strength isn't holding back most climbers. And I'd do this for climbers of all sizes. Running is something that I would do on a day where you're not climbing, its good for basic conditioning but overall has few benefits for climbing. 5 hours. It's like all… Just focus on your climbing. 10 votes, 13 comments. Also if you cant reach the final hold of the route in gym, consider the route done because a bit taller could easily just reach to it. Some good openers I've tried: 1. com Jan 27, 2025 · 10 Devils Head Climbing Tips For Beginners. Just keep climbing and your skin will get tougher. This is the games trap skill, and is essentially pure trash. 12s. 5 Biomechanical Tips to Improve Your Climbing Technique by u/stoneyviolist - A sports medicine take on climbing form. Respect the rock, don't warm up or climb in trainers full of grit and dirt, clean shoes before climbing, don't leave behind hideous tick marks, if the rock is damp/wet don't climb on it as it is weaker and erodes and damages much faster. 7. I think the last time I did any form of rock climbing was with my school when I was like 10 years old, I'm now 24. 2. Climbing is subversive! Tip 3: Ask the better climbers for tips on technique and beta. Haha it's always one people think of :) don't know if it fits with your theme exactly but Obsession Climbing do tips on gear use, knots, and self rescue. For beginners, navigating the routes and understanding the best practices can be daunting. For a couple climbs we didn't use ice axes and held onto any little holes we found in the ice. Rock climbing is a blast! Just start easy and work up from there. I agree with the other poster that anytime you walk into a rock gym, there are a fair amount of beginners, so I wouldn't worry about that. If you find that you like climbing, I'd recommend picking up The Self-Coached Climber for tips/lessons. If you are looking to get some helpful tips for a beginner rock climber or ways to start rock climbing, you have come to the right place. Suits that favor APL have a purple background. 12. Regardless of any advice you may receive while using this forum, it is your personal responsibility to make sure that you are fully trained to handle the great deal of risk involved in climbing and related activities. Socializing is just something that happens to happen in gyms. I would stretch after a boulder session or at least after a warm-up. I have been lifting weights for a month now and I haven't even gained one pound but I have found I can lift more weights and when I pull myself up to the next hold. We all know the videos/articles with titles like "Best 5 beginner tips" and the like. If you want to get into outdoor climbing and not just go outdoor climbing occasionally tell whoever is running it, but probably not your first time (especially if you've only been in a gym twice). In both, men's and women's categories, the best boulderers are taller than the best lead climbers. Lattice Training recently released a new video on their Ultimate Guide to Climbing Skin Care. 6. Anytime I take a break from climbing, this time two weeks cause of a head injury and sickness, my fingers peel. Honestly there are a lot of ways to get better at climbing, the single most important thing is, to avoid injury. This meant that instead of climbing for 3 hours as I typically would, I would climb for 1. 4. 11s, chances are you can do 5. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. and thats bad for your fingers. Three other days are dedicated to rock climbing. The filing down your calloused skin thing is more relevant once you've developed some gnarly callouses. The safety system in a gym is very, very different from the safety system outdoors 112 votes, 27 comments. Let's take the program from the Rock Climbing Training Manual as an example: it includes 4 weeks of general fitness, 3-4 of hangboarding, 2-3 of power, 3-4 of power endurance and finally a few weeks of performance. You are doing yourself a major disservice in the long-run if you take the “easy” way out and campus everything. Basically the title. APL stands for Appeal. These are the top 5 beginner rock climbing techniques that I used and still use to improve my own rock climbing. Taking it up because I enjoy climbing and it's another way of building strength and getting out of the house! For only 3 months of climbing and already at V4, it's almost a guarantee, at least in my almost 20 years of climbing, that you're on track for a finger injury of you continue trip push grades hard, especially as you progress to more difficult, smaller and finger-y holds. What do you find helped you advance and how long did it take you? Any tips would be appreciate. This caused us to pay a lot more attention to our feet over our hands. People will often sand down their finger tips before getting on a crimpy route to prevent their tips from losing a big chunk of skin. I know my technique will improve by more climbing, but I noticed from a handful of boulders I've failed on was due to lack of finger strength. 9 out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Should I be trying more hard climbs rather than spending See full list on theadventurejunkies. Accompanied by Youtube videos to support the exercises. climb lots of terrain at your onsight level or just below in as many styles you can, repeating problems you’ve done “perfectly” or with radically different ways. This isn't your issue though. Also, watch how women climb (just not in a creepy leering way) - their technique is often better than most men, because they usually don't have the same size or upper body strength. . Recovery wise, after a long day climbing and you have sore and worn skin you want to boost that skin humidity. I performed the climbing related training on the same day as climbing, as I don’t have the facilities at home, and I only have two free evenings per week. So start playing around on 5. It is full of drills to do to work on technique. I've been climbing for about 8 years. Bouldering and roped climbing are quite different so be sure to try out both and If a climb is too hard for you, make it easier! If that means going off-route in the gym or making new holds on the rock, fucking go for it dude you can't let things like ethics, tradition, laws, or rules get in the way of your self expression. Really notice how they are moving and try to replicate it. The things I credit to a solid recovery were eccentric work (mainly down-climbing routes + problems, just the lowering half of pull-ups, etc. Ask for help on your boulder problems with the intent of getting help, not making friends. I haven't really done much climbing specific training/hang boarding, I've just been treating it as a fun after work activity! I've been climbing 3 days a week for the last few months (to maintain sanity during covid), which is more than the 2 days I normally do. In my experience, footwork/keeping tension through your feet will be crucial on any kind of overhang. See if you local gym will pass you on their lead test. This way you can be confident they're only being judging your climbing to give you constructive feedback to help you get better, you'll learn new things much faster, and make some great social connections. If you play around with frequency VS intensity, you can add hours at a lower intensity, and slowly add intensity over time. Haha well I am 6'3" and 150 pounds. I have hypermobile Ehlers Danlos Syndrome, which is a connective tissue disorder that makes my joints and ligaments super flexible and also makes me prone to subluxations and dislocations. Also EpicTV have tons of videos about climbing. Realistically, you can get 12 hours of climbing/training a week by climbing for 4hrs 3 days a week or 3hrs 4 days a week or even 2. As others have mentioned, try to pay attention to what the good climbers are doing and moving. The best male climbers are on average 4 cm shorter than their non-climbing peers and female climbers around 1 cm shorter. If you are able to, I'd pick up the book Rock Climbing Technique by John Kettle. I believe the channel also talks a bit about injuries as well. Eventually when you start 4-star awakening SSR suits, you'll get some 12pp and 13pp skills which are the best in the game. try all v2s at the gym, find the easiest one for you, try hard. When there is a rock climbing event, you can upgrade PP skills further as well. if you start slowly, take good and easy holds on the handboard and start with 70% of your bodyweight (your feed wont even loose grip to the floor in the whole session), then it will boost your climbing even as a newbie! Reddit's rock climbing training community. That's why just climb is the best advice. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. I’ve been climbing for a few years, and have been lucky enough to travel and learn all over the western half of the country at some amazing destinations. 4hrs 5 days a week. You'll fall, but that's how you're gonna improve your technique. Thick skin is not very flexible so often times there is friction issues. So I’ve been climbing pretty regularly for about 2 years now. Bouldering is a form of rock climbing that is performed without the use of ropes or harnesses, either outdoors on small rock formations or indoors on climbing walls, also known as boulders, which are artificially constructed surfaces, fitted with a variety of hand and footholds. This 100%! Technique and body position. Sport climbing does alot more for your power endurance (ability to pull many moves without much rest), but theres also a mental aspect to it, because when you're leading you have to periodically stop, hold with 1 hand, clip the draw, and then continue climbing, all of which adds difficulty to the climb (not to mention the falling aspect - fear actively practice climbing straight on vs with a hip twist; statically vs dynamically; both feet on vs flagged; CoG low vs high & do this on varied terrain and hold types. If you want to do training at home, focus on your antagonists and injury prevention. Welcome to the official subreddit of the PC Master Race / PCMR! All PC-related content is welcome, including build help, tech support, and any doubt one might have about PC ownership. INNNJUURRYYY PREVEENTTIIOOON. Climbing at Devils Head, a unique rock formation in the Front Range of the Rocky Mountains, offers an exhilarating experience for climbers of all levels. Part of it is because I climb a lot of crimpy routes on sharp rock, but I also have naturally dry skin and my hands don’t sweat. If you want to do cardio that somewhat benefits climbing you could try rowing instead. You haven't been climbing long enough to experience a plateau, what you're experiencing is just the end of the noob gains. When I started I could do v2 and muscle through some v3s Now my technique is vastly improved but I’m still climbing v3s and can barley do some v4s. If you are replacing climbing with strength training, and your goal is to improve climbing, then that is not so good. Get too close to a ledge or try to mine ore out of a wall by standing in the hole it left and you get launched out. You are all amazing. I only lift weights twice a week: one day is arms and the other is legs and at the end I run. S. However, what are some advanced climbing tips for someone who has climbed a few years? I came across this video, and thats my inspiration for the question. 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