Best climbing nuts for rock climbing reddit The same with those “double ended nuts” with different sizes on each end of the same cable. This is pieces of climbing gear, that a climber will use to protect the climb. This Apr 14, 2025 路 Oh, nuts! 馃槀 Who knew these little metal heroes would become my ride-or-die companions on the rock face? While we’re in the thick of discussing climbing nuts, let’s take a moment to celebrate the unsung heroes of trad climbing with a sprinkle of humor and some useful insights: Some drawbacks with the Metolius UL curved nuts: smaller sized have a breaking strength of 7kN compared to 12 kN of the HB offsets their cables kink easier Apr 14, 2025 路 Ian Nicholson has just posted the new SuperTopo Climbing Nut Review. I don’t have much experience with other nuts but I feel fine climbing above them when placed correctly. Slings are softer on the rock than nuts so try using a sling as a thread in this situation, or look for something else more solid. That being said, stacks like this were used in clean aid climbing in the 90s. Double up 2-7. The reason is that gym holds are way more abrasive than rock, and they'll usually polish your shoes' rubber to an almost mirror finish. 550 votes, 31 comments. Aug 8, 2022 路 Four nuts. Any commercially made gear will be fine. if it is, you did something else very wrong. A more experienced friend recommended substituting them with the DMM alloy offsets #7-11 combined with the DMM peenuts #1-5. if you can place a hex = elephant bomb proof! but the weight, take only what you expect to place size 3 & 6 if you have a full set of nuts. Crypto Posted by u/deadphish1 - 9 votes and 35 comments They’re fine. Best I can find short notice are from climbing wall services based out of Sheffield (see link below). set of nuts. If you then use those to climb on rock, especially a more slippery rock e. We like to compliment the Black Diamond Stoppers with a set of offset nuts. But your climbing gear settings definitely need load lifters and large space. Double check if you need a sport climbing license, some gyms require this. You won't die of embarrassment if your mother finds your rock gear. 62 votes, 25 comments. I had a hip/back injury a couple months back and have slowly been getting back to the gym. 6. Nobody ever got pregnant rock climbing! I have a finger crack project that takes nuts really well but cams are a pain on it since the rock is irregular with big crystals. A lot of harder trad in my experience, I needed some rudimentary aid climbing techniques anyway in order to access the route to parse out the free climbing beta safely. Thank you everyone who helped tune it up over the last day. Stretchy, draw cord closure for the leg openings to cinch, and super soft. Remember that climbers used literal nuts from a hardware store not very long ago. "Anyone need advice on making the transition from 5. 4: Gear, Ive got doubles between 0. Plus long runners to extend gear. So I'm seeking potential burner nuts or replacement for the Trango Nuts=Stoppers Have a full set. Yonghe has sport climbing others are bouldering. big holds that get pulled in a counter-clockwise direction. I shoot for around 100 g of protein on a climbing day and not as much on a non-climbing day. Personally I barely even place nuts anymore and most of my climbing partners also don’t place nuts. 95. If you have a color scheme preference that’s probably good enough reason to go another way. It's over when you reach the peak. Mostly though, look at what you'll be climbing. But that doesn't mean climbing today isn't a good experience. For general free climbing, we recommend the DMM Peenuts, for aid climbing or thin free climbing (think Eldorado Canyon) we like the DMM Brass Offset. These aren’t quite the same, and are fo volumes, but should give you an idea what to look for. Climbing Nuts 101 will help you make that decision when you're getting your first gear for trad climbing. Hey folks, I have couple question regarding a home climbing wall and I'd like to know what you guys have done. offsets nuts are really nice to have For free climbing, the DMM Peanuts are awesome. These will give you a good range of sizes. Best advice would be to see what he is planning on using it for. This is rock type dependent, and I've found that many crags have irregular rock types without many sections of truly parallel sided cracks. I'm also a gamer so I kinda wanted to hear about games that do climbing well. for when the shit really hits the fan, I have the smallest 4 or so BD Micro nutsand for aid climbing, I have DMM offset brass. 8. Some sort of climbing has been present since the days of old. Sport climbing is neither. Absolutely feel more in love with climbing then but now, 8 years later, I still wish I would have dedicated way more time to outside climbing. The best deal I have found for holds is Atomik Climbing at $3/hold. Typically I wear leggings indoors, but outdoors, I wear lighter fabric hiking pants because they're comfy to move in and wick moisture. It seems like there's been a lot of new climbing podcasts over the last few years. For unknown long climbs . Nuts are usually sold in sets of around ten. 4 and 3. For instance, lets say I want to climb a long 5. Best of Reddit; Topics; Content Policy; There's only three rules in rock climbing: look good, have fun, safety third. The rec center at my university has a bouldering wall as well as a nice climbing wall. If it's in too deep, you can yank on a nut. 4 inch grid might be a bit much but 4-6"'s will be good. Set screws are pretty simple to use. And that's great! It is odd to meet people at a climbing gym that have no interest in climbing outdoors or even top I have 0 climbing experience other than climbing some trees when I was younger. I almost never use the yellow size though, and could probably do without it. My most regular climbing pants right now are The North Face Beyond the Wall pants. 14 with 3% body fat. That setup has worked great for me from Red Rock sandstone to columnar basalt to Yosemite granite. So climbing a 5. 9. They're pretty rugged too, no rips but some pilling, and they've been put through some shit. Trad and sport harnesses can be different with the padding and gear loop layouts. I guess it really depends on the type of climbing you do. rated strength is not the same concept as durability in an anchor, the most important aspect is not a single component's rated strength. One of the best value for climbing nuts is the full set of Black Diamond Stoppers, which come in at $119. Somebody can add to this but probably a standard set of nuts or offsets, and camalots . One placement kills two pieces. Then go for the cams. teaser for a part of Reel Rock 9, climbing the Patagonia skyline. 10 votes, 40 comments. As a result there are many more people using climbing as a fun workout more than pursuing it as a true sport. I see numbers being thrown around and a common one being 3/8 of an inch for the t-nut size itself. Second to that is Cheap Holds at $4/hold. I’d say you could suppliment hexes for cams but cams really shine on Granite which makes up the rock at Jtree and Yosemite. Similar climbing wall suppliers should have them in stock. The 5th loop holds all of my nonsense gear that I carry for non climbing/emergencies. you get the picture. And ive got one #4 and one black alien. Worked perfect to cover plenty of placement options and get me comfortable before going full trad. When t-nuts strip, you need to be able to get back there to fix them. However, holes like this usually suggest poor rock quality. com 5 days ago 路 How much does a full rack of climbing nuts cost? A full rack of climbing nuts will cost around $120. This 100%! Technique and body position. Grab a set of nuts to start and practice placement. 3 to 3 to start. Should I slim down the rack for these routes? The wall between the brewery and the climbing gym is glass, so your friends and fam can try out climbing if they want and then if they don’t like it go sit and eat some food or have a drink while they watch you climb. 1. Adjama Is my go to as well. You can go climbing any time of the month. without load lifters will not that difficult. If I'm climbing multipitch I basically always bring along the green and red one- they weigh nothing and are great backups. if the rock type is suited to offsets have a set of theirs also. Whether thats your thing or not is totally personal preference but, I find them useful. etc) and also with multiple days of side-by-side comparison in the same cracks. Recently I went on a trip to the gunks and figured this would be a good chance to find those 'magic pinscar placements'. Or side to side the spacing is 6" and top to bottom the spacing is 4". They're simply a better option than normal nuts for anything flaring or heavily pebbled/crystalized. The rig is designed to resemble a crack that one would find in rock face and is not the standard becket and button configuration we know in the standard soft shackle. I started climbing outside within the first few months and luckily went to Hueco for one of my first experiences on real rock. Second, I'm an avid climber my self, I've been rock climbing for years now and I'm pretty comfortable at grade F7 (or about 5. The nuts are inserted into cracks in the rock, a carabiner is attached to the nut and the rope is then pased through the carabiner Photo: boesgaard / getty images Jan 6, 2020 路 Even now, after several updates and a lot more fierce competition, they remain one of the very best nuts for the tiniest of fissures and are our Top Pick for a Micro Nut. Here's why I think this: Business, Economics, and Finance. I'm running old Tango "made by Hudy Sports" nuts, and I recently realized that they are actually offset in one plane and parallel in another plane. Recently, though, Patagonia was having a big sale, so I bought a pair of women's "climbing" pants and they're actually really nice for bouldering. I would just watch your calories a bit, but i've never had a problem staying at my same weight (155 lbs 5'11"). "HowNOTtoHIGHLINE" tested some stopper knots being used as climbing nuts. I absolutely abhor their training gear. The Cheap Holds pack looks like it is pretty heavy on foot chips and thin on jugs. While hardly a day-in, day-out piece of protection for everyday trad climbing, they are considered mandatory on any big wall aid route or free climb that requires tiny protection. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Comparing these two, the Atomiks look like a much better deal, not just on price but on the mix. 6 or so alpine draws a few of your sport quickdraws, some 7mm cord to build anchors and some lockers. every area is different but that one fits a large majority of climbs. Holds that get pulled the other way won't spin as often because they get tightened rather than loosened when pulled. And don't believe DMM's bullshit marketing about those four hex's replacing six hex's. . I'm drafting up plans for a home wall and I'm trying to figure out what kind of t-nuts and bolts people use (size-wise). If you go with this thought, you may miss out on what you can do with hexes and also do dangerous things with nuts. Which ones would you recommend and why? I'm going on a month long climbing trip by myself so I really appreciate your tips! I've already listened to everything from the power company climbing podcast by the way :) Edit: Wow thank you guys so much! Amazing. as every situation that you'd whip on them on a single nut would normally catch you (lead fall) with 10 kN, you then can engineer the weight and cost savings down. Generally, nuts need to be light enough that it's worth bringing 10-20 during a climb. 4K votes, 176 comments. Jeans colors also hide ass sweat more than light brown hiking pants… I find even the stretchy jeans with high spandex too sweaty and thick though…prefer stretchy hiking pants. there's always a tipping point between cost, weight and strength. This works best with large nuts. Also, there are 3-prong t-nuts that are made for softer wood, such as plywood. 3 come to mind, 1 in nangang area, Wanhua and Zhongshan. Comparing sizes #1 green, #2 green, #3 gold Torque Nuts are almost the same size in all setting positions within one or two mm as the #5 green, #6 red, #7 gold Rockcentrics. You can also schmooze your local fastenal to get a decent price on 3/8 socket cap screws. 5-3 C4 cam size. 12 for the Americans). I have average sized hands and seem to have a tough time manipulating it into a solid position one-handed. 7. " — Mike Yukish. I’m climbing in red rock See full list on outdoorgearlab. The commonly used 4-prong nuts tend to tear the wood and start spinning more easily. GameStop Moderna Pfizer Johnson & Johnson AstraZeneca Walgreens Best Buy Novavax SpaceX Tesla. Everything you know about nuts applies to them. Gyms are everywhere and they are far more approachable. low-level limestone, the sensation will be like ice skating on rollerskates. I bought my home wall t-nuts from Escape climbing. 12d gear route that is at my free climbing limit. The home of Climbing on reddit. So i was wondering if there is a norm for the distance, and if it is being used in most(or all(?)) commercial climbing walls nowadays 馃 I honestly hope so, because that means that i would theoretically be able to re-set a boulder from my local climbing gym, so keep projecting it indefinitely! In my experience, contact area is even more important than strength rating, let me explain this: at 5kN strength rating you would have to have a pretty severe factor >=1 fall to break the smallest micro nuts, yet I know they would not hold a 1m fall because the pressure resulting from that small force applied in a tiny area will most likely break the constriction it sits on. Threading Nuts Nuts can also be used as a thread. And yes we are scared of falling. If you pack not that heavy like for indoor climbing wall, light climbing plan, etc. Although they're pricey ($20 USD on Vimeo) the recent Reel Rock (10 and 11) movies are a fantastic watch and super inspiring, Reel Rock 9 is called Valley Uprising and is on US Netflix, cool ducomentary about the history of Yosemite climbing gritty alpine climbing Worth looking up T-UP climbing gyms. Oct 25, 2024 路 They are a little harder to clean than more traditional, non-offset nuts, and you do need a few smaller pieces to mate them with for a complete rack. The best placements I found involved either placements that flare inward (which take regular nuts just fine) and placements where the nut was placed perpendicular to the wall as in |- This also did not seem reasonable. Hexes are just big nuts. I also run DMM offsets, I feel okay about them. All the climbing specific trousers I've ever tried, although "baggy" are often just made from non stretch fabric (I want to say cotton but imagine their mostly man made fibres) and I have big thighs so even clothes sold as baggy are still tight on me, I'd need MC Hammer pants before I might consider trousers to be baggy. Personally, I started with a set of BD nuts and a yellow and orange Metolius power cam. Keeps the front 4 loops clear for cams/nuts and slings while I climb. rated strength is NOT even close to a direct measure of safety, since an anchor is a system and no single component should ever be subjected to the breaking strength of a cord. Good work on creating access space behind the wall. Poke the wire loop through the hole, then clip a quickdraw to it. 7 with 22% body fat is way harder than climbing a 5. Just look for holds that might spin, e. you can supplement with bigger or smaller gear if you need to. A full set of nuts and offset nuts. I have a set of small dmm offsets I got on sale and they’ve proven handy but not much more than regular nuts. 12 to 5. We tested these nuts both through years of traditional climbing (Alaska, Yosemite, WA Pass. The problem with screwing the holds in, is they are fairly permanent. I hung out with a professional guide in JTree for a bit who only had offsets for his climbing there, since the majority of cracks are flaring, water-made cracks. What games do you guys think has the best climbing mechanics? You do all the work to carry multiple pieces up a climb and then this type of stacking eats through your gear at a double time. All brands fit differently as well so maybe offering to purchase one in your budget is a good idea. there's a lot of information in the stickied post on this sub but standard rack is doubles . Well you can order T-Nuts online, or you can get climbing holds that have screw holes and screw them into the wall. Depends where you'll be climbing. But the committing move run out and way up high above the snowy deck ended up being one of my most memorable climbing moments. Re-injury is a big thing on my mind, so I focus on how to support my weight and move up the wall with as little strength as possible. I would always poke my head in the room after my workouts and thought about how fun it looked. Resin is an outdated material for artificial climbing holds (rock rings and hang boards). Bulk bolts (by the big box) are relatively cheap at Rock Candy Holds. I got a pro set of BD stoppers for a gift, I've used them for a little bit, they're fine. I have checked out the gear placements on top rope (since it’s above my sport climbing highest grade) and I determined the best placements are a mixture of small cams, regular nuts, offsets, and a peenut. g. Black Diamond Offset Stoppers will work perfectly as a Oct 19, 2021 路 They're an essential part of any climber's trad rack, but what makes the best climbing nuts? There's many different styles and brands to choose from when deciding on which ones you're going to buy. 10. 11 ?" For a small wall more T-Nuts is better. Offset nuts are considered more of a supplement, whereas standard ones are just that: standard. They make the smallest full strength carabiners you can possibly find. I finally said screw it and just walked in there one day to try it out. Similarly with cams, cheaper and lighter is seen as better Anything with a decent percentage spandex that is stretchy. 35L version with that gear setting will be painful for your shoulder and painful to you lack of enough space. Stuff like prusiks, gloves, belay plate and a nanotrax+tiblock for rescue. And I really love them nuts. Also have a few micros of offsets & stopper/rock/nuts. My nuts are DMM Torque Nuts come in second, but don't set as easily or as firmly as the Rockcentrics. vejxaun azix qldsof teqj ddlx pnc mmbua qdmjy grqe ynh