Shoulder length sling climbing reddit Some areas may have bolted anchors that are easily accessible, in which case you'll just need slings and some more biners. I carry 21' of 7mm cord because i feel it can handle all of these applications and gives me the best options for extending belays, finding comfortable stances, etc. Jul 5, 2020 · I tend to climb with about a dozen total draws. Wirenose (or equivalent) if you can. While in the pack to-and-from the crag, I take all the shoulder length slings and stack them together and tie a big overhand knot in the middle with them. Mostly it's 8 or so alpines (60 CM slings like yours) and another 3 or 4 double length slings over my shoulder and snapped under the arm with a single or double carabiner, depending on how I think they'll be used. Including but not limited to- using three biners one 2 draws. EDIT: Here's the link. com Sep 1, 2023 · The most commonly used length is 60cm (or 24"), which is commonly referred to as “shoulder-length,” and most frequently used to extend a piece of climbing protection to reduce rope drag on the leader. A shoulder strap will take the weight off of your neck and spread it across your shoulder and back. And yes we are scared of falling. 6 depending in the knot //the 2 comes from the fact that you have 2 strings when knoting cord together For my smaller cams (Black Diamond X4s) I always extend with at least a quickdraw, and frequently with a full shoulder-length sling. -one sewn sling, double shoulder length (120 cm), to make a sliding x/equallete. , 25cm x2 + 18cm x6 + 12cm x6) + at least one shoulder length sling + random binners to have as much diverse rack as possible. Carry a few single length slings over a shoulder with one carabiner attached. If shoulder or double length slings aren't long enough, use your untied cordalette instead. Another popular length is 120cm (48"), a sling that is most frequently used for equalizing multiple pieces of protection in an anchor. Clip a normal alpine draw to the cam sling. My standard draw arsenal is 6 alpine draws, 5 single length and 2 double lengths over my shoulder. I rack my draws on the sling and gear on my harness. Jun 3, 2022 · To extend your device, use a double-shoulder-length sling or your personal anchor system (PAS). 8 shoulder lengths (2 with light weight lockers), 2-4 dbl. Your rack looks fine (you can probably leave the 2nd #3 at home to save luggage weight), though you might want one or two more small cams like an extra #0. Also, he needs to learn how to use the trigger. Make sure to properly tighten your slipknots. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. Enough carabiners for all of that (except the cord) to have 2 per sling/draw. If you dont have the money or the strength to spare for a shoulder sling and a double shoulder length sling, butbyou have the money and strength for an extra draw, you are asking for trouble or a bad time. 11 votes, 390 comments. Sep 30, 2016 · Personally I prefer longer QDs (18cm and 25cm) to shorter (10cm or 12cm) ones and try to carry all three sizes (e. Because both of your ascenders are toothed ascenders take special care to make sure your setup is auto feeding, you really don't want to whip onto an ascender, both because ascenders cut ropes at like 4kn of force, and also because you will fuck up the sheath of your I like to use a shoulder length with a figure 8 in the middle. When cleaning shoulder/double-shoulder length slings, always sling them the same way (over the same shoulder) in order to make the transition smoother without a clusterfuck of slings to sort out. Quickdraws/Slings/'biners 6 pre made "stubby" quickdraws draws, 4 shoulder length slings, 2 double shoulder length slings, 25' of 7-8mm accessory cord. Standard slings are 48-inch sewn loops, but individual runners can vary a few inches, to better fit larger- or smaller-chested climbers. See full list on outdoorgearlab. Take some additional 60cm slings according to route length Left Rear: alpine draws and maybe a double length runner for super extended placements. Five to ten shoulder slings for extending pieces (24 inch/60cm length is most common) Two or three double shoulder length slings, useful for building anchors on bolts (48 inch/120cm) A few free non-locking carabiners for extending pieces and other things; One or two large locking carabiners for the anchor masterpoint Posted by u/stochastica - 7 votes and 48 comments I have 6 alpines (60cm/ shoulder length sling, Camp Photons on both sides), and my main partners have at least 6 if not more. For an all-around sling, go with 120cm nylon. Clip the sling to the two bolts, then pull the center down to equalize, then do an overhand or 8 on a bight to create a master point. 3 and #0. I climb in the Gunks where there is a fair mix of tree anchors, bolted anchors, and gear anchors. Single-length slings (60cm/24 in. If I had to use double length slings, I would almost certainly use a cordelette. 40m+), shoulder/body slings are the shizzle. Mammut contact sling is my personal favorite. I usually only need two single length slings to create the anchor. I now rack most everything on my harness. I have both, I will use my dynex slings to extend my master point. Clip the other two biners around the lower section (should be 4 strands) then rope goes into those biners. Three choices. Feb 23, 2022 · 10 shoulder-length slings; 1 double-sided gear sling; 3 double-length slings; 1 60m x 10. The home of Climbing on reddit. If 1/2lb makes it breaks your climb and you're not climbing 5. it's dangerous. Long enough to build and anchor and tie a knot in so you can clip two bolts when using as a PAS. This is my preferred method. You could attach the sling to the belt with a carabiner, or probably girth hitch the sling to the belt, as a fall would be unlikely to generate enough heat to melt the slings (but still possible, id qgo with the biner) then the other carabiner is used to clip to the cables. When I first started trad climbing, I used a shoulder gear loop but never really liked it. So, friction knot > carabiner > friction knot. Not sure what kind of impulse equations you're looking at, but a factor 2 fall on your dyneema sling connected directly to an anchor (i. What would be a first good sling and why? I'm looking at a 10mm thick 60/100cm long sling. Middle Rear (5th loop): Bought my Petzl Aquila specifically for this loop for trad climbing. 4 cm), 16" (40. Reply Just wondering how many Alpine Draws, Quick Draws, and Single-Biner slings you guys carry for normal single pitch cragging? I normally have 5 single length alpines, 1 double length alpine, and one single length alpine with lockers on my harness - no empty or single biner slings or QDs. If you have like 2-4 small draws, 4-6 longer ones and 4 alpines that should cover you for most stuff. This actually isn't a terrible technique, it's what Chris Mac recommends in his new book. although some of these roof scenarios might require an alpine draw / shoulder length sling . . Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. 6 cm) or, 20" (50 In normal multipitch id much rather have trad draws with 2 biners than single biner. On here sits all the extra stuff. After about 1 year with this you'd probably want to add 1. Very versatile edit for clarity: The smaller your friction knot diameter is the more it Bites. 4 small lockers So $800 added onto your sport gear of draws, belay device, harness, shoes, chalkbag. Then I'll have 6 shoulder length slings with a single carabiner slung on my shoulder to use for clipping cams since they already have carabiners on them. com $50 10 shoulder length slings $20 2 double length slings Gear express $150 30 nonlockers $26. while youre on thr subject, i highly recommend getting a few shoulder length slings and putting a single non locker on each one. , if the bolt line is not straight, longer draws can ameliorate some of the drag instead of the rope zig zagging between the bolts, the longer draws will assist; or if the route goes over big roofs the rope will hopefully run a bit smoother. The only thing that's off is him using a shoulder length sling instead of an aider, puts his foot really high. If you plan on working easy'ish long pitches (ie. More if the route wanders. Girth-hitch the sling through the two tie-in points on your harness and snug it up, keeping the bar tack close to your belay loop (fig. You can use a bungee or a double length sling or two shoulder length slings. This should cover roping up and crevasse rescue on glaciated terrain, I expect my partner(s) to carry a similar set up. Please be also advised, that the knot in the sling will reduce the holding power of the sling. No sling on thumb loop action here. keeps them from snagging the gear in the bag or making huge rat's nests. Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. 5 or something, and one bigger cam like a 4 or 5 (though there are dozens of multi-pitch moderates you don't any bigger pieces for). 5mm lead rope; 1 60m x 9mm static haul rope; 1 progress-capture pulley; 1 swivel for haul bag; Personal Gear. 10 votes, 24 comments. Clove/8/Bowline/etc. that way, if you want to extend a piece, you just clip that sling to the biner thats already on the cam, and clip the rope to the biner on the sling. to a locker on each bolt and tie a BFK. " Posted by u/WildWilly29 - 5 votes and 29 comments Posted by u/baffled88 - 6 votes and 15 comments Depends on your local climbing area. Then I take my double lengths, fold in half, and then overhand them all together. shoulder lengths (1 locker apiece), 2 sport draws, 25' of cordelette, at least one of the dbl shoulder slings from knotted tube webbing. 3 to 0. Basically, you want all flop, no tension when the rope goes through. Small cams and nuts front left, big cams front right, quickdraws back left, belay device and anchor gear back right, shoulder length slings with a single biner each over the shoulder. Slings, doesn't really matter. Also, try to rack gear on your harness as you are cleaning in the same way that you would rack it when you are leading. 30 meters seems like a lot of material for an anchor considering most ropes for climbing are 60-70m. Therefore when racking my X4s on my harness, I often just rack them on alpine draws. Useful for clipping into anchors, switching to rappel quickly without ever being being unprotected, and great for multiple raps for the above two reasons. Your setups lacks these 60cm slings right now. Or, the same solutions- a sling and 2 draws. I prefer the mental comfort of not using a largely dyneema sling (DONT JUDGE ME BEARBREEDER), so I use this sling, rather than this dynex/dyneema (basically the same thing) sling. of tubular 1" webbing and cut it into lengths to make you own double length, or even larger, tied slings. Sep 19, 2019 · Rappel extensions started becoming in vogue around 2006 after a climbing accident in Wyoming where a friction hitch backup was likely tended or pushed down by the device causing the climber to lose control and eventually rappel off the end of the rope. The only issue I can see with making your own is if you make a normal length sling, and double it so it's shorter as a quick-draw, there might be some hanky panky if you're trying to extend it to the regular length by unclipping the biner, clipping 1 strand and then pulling. Ignore the cam racking carabiner, just let it hang there unused. I also really like to keep 1 or 2 lengths of cord, still 6 mm, About the same loop length of a shoulder length sling because I could use that as an Emergency runner if I need to. it depends on where you're climbing. 1. Available in three lengths and with color coded slings; these long draws are made up of two Bravo carabiners joined by an 11 mm Monster Sling. Mar 13, 2024 · Single-length slings should be the mainstay of your sling collection. 5 can vary from 0. E. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. Please sort comments by 'new' to find questions that would otherwise be buried. If 10 feet extension from each bolt isn't enough and you are on the correct route, before grabbing a huge piece of static or another cordalette, carefully double check those bolts because I usually carry 3 biner and 3 locking biner, 2 short prussic (shoulder length) and a long one (double shoulder length), a couple of ice screws and at least one snow stake. thus, you dont have to feel like you wasting a biner every time you clip a draw to the cam's sling. This gets you a "minimal single rack". They are designed to be carried on your harness gear loops just like a normal quickdraw, which gives you quick and easy access to shoulder length slings. For bolted stations it's more convenient to just use a double-length sling (either premade or your own webbing one). That's 12 pieces of gear for a pitch, without including the anchor or any that you could clip directly. without a dynamic element in the system between you and the anchor, like a climbing rope) will generate far more than 2kN of force, and will likely result in slings breaking, injury, bolts popping, etc. They’re sized to fit neatly over one shoulder and give approximately 24 inches of extension when clipped with a biner on each end. Gym climber looking to get outside next spring, mostly in the northeast USA. Maybe a few more shoulder length slings. e. You probably want to use a double-length sling and a quickdraw, or two shoulder-lengths, at least. If you don't need both your hands free then a hand strap (I use the Peak Design Clutch) can take the load off. The rappel extension helps eliminate this issue Grab 10-15 shoulder-length slings (60cm) and 20-30 non-locking biners. Alpine draws are more useful because you can extend them. If the climb is very straight I’ll rack on regular quickdraws. 1). 5 = breaking force oft the system //the 0. Girth hitched through waist and leg loop points so my belay loop stays open. Last thing you need is your biners catching on slings and gear as you try to release them. Fold it over on itself and clip the other end of the sling into your belay loop with a locker. Mtnoutlet. I started climbing by sport climbing and picked up Petzl spirit draws from the get go. (Like 1/2lb). If you already have some QDs from sport climbing, you can bring those, but I rarely do. Climbing in Yosemite, for example, will often give you two bolts in close proximity if you have bolted anchors at all. I'm planning to buy some pro (a mix of cams and… Five to ten shoulder slings for extending pieces (24 inch/60cm length is most common) Two or three double shoulder length slings, useful for building anchors on bolts (48 inch/120cm) A few free non-locking carabiners for extending pieces and other things; One or two large locking carabiners for the anchor masterpoint And you don't need so many short draws if you're not sport climbing. In this thread you can ask any climbing… Remember you can also cut some cost by slinging single length slings with biner over your shoulder for cam placements. When I learned to make alpine draws, I generally carry 4 alpine draws and 8 shoulder slings. I only carry webbing while climbing for use in bail anchors, but for canyoneering where it is super common I would use the 1in tubular webbing. If there are bolted anchors just get a double shoulder length sling and 4 locking biners. ) are a useful length—roughly 2 or 3 times longer than most quickdraws; they're a good length to wear over a shoulder or as an alpine quickdraw. I normally bring 6-8 alpine draws for clipping bolts, nuts and other protection that requires two carabiners. 11+ trad, then youre probably better off losing 1/2lb body weight or getting more skill/experience. Longer slings are more effective at reducing rope drag than a quickdraw, but are also heavier and bulkier. For top roping, you can buy about 40 ft. If you need your hands free then you can try a shoulder strap (I use the Peak Design leash but there are other more padded ones). Honestly they are just a joy to clip and when I got into trad I just picked up some dyneema shoulder length slings and switched some of the biners off my sport draws onto them and made alpine draws. the knot might snag. So your calculations shoud go like this : 2*(rating oft the sling)*0. g. Lengths: 12" (25. 5 trad draws (shoulder length slings + 2 snapgates for each) 2-3 double length slings Quadruple length sling or cordelette + 3-4 locking biners for anchors Hexes, small cams, big cams, offset nuts, extra tricams and all of that can come later when he has a better idea of what he wants. By far the biggest way to drop weight without sacrificing safety is to place (and therefore carry) more stoppers. daisy chains (2 per person) aiders (6 per team of two) ascenders (2 per person) fifi hook; helmet; comfy, well-padded harness with detachable leg loops Exactly. There is a proper way to do it with a double-shoulder length sling if anyone didn't know already "The other most important thing is that the sling should be minimalistic, comfortable and full strength so that you’ll always have one last shoulder length sling to whip out if you run out of runners to extend a crucial piece, or if you arrive at the anchor with nothing and you need something to clip in with. The climbing rope between the two friction knots is slightly slack and the inexpensive sling takes the load over the abrasive edge. 19K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. Grigri, ATC, prusik, triple or quad length sling or a cordalette, bail gear, etc. 4-6 lockers, with at least two being dedicated solely for top roping and one being dedicated for your belay device. Posted by u/CyberScorpion0 - 4 votes and 18 comments Another method that works in a pinch is to use two slings or a Prusik and a long sling with a friction knot. I use a 240 centimeter sling for trad anchors and it works for many different types of anchors as well as being lighter than the same amount of cord. And I absolutely agree on if the bolts are further spaced apart than usual. No bail gear? Extend, extend, extend some more. I say nylon because it has some elasticity if you accidentally shock load it. Futzing with over the shoulder slings sucks more then carrying an extra 10 carabiners. 8mm Mammut dyneema stitched sling, I think it's 180cm- carry on glacier slogs for crevasse rescue anchor building 8mm Mammut dyneema shoulder-length stitched sling - girth hitched to picket(s) How many folks here use 6mm (or smaller) for rock anchors? 7mm? Also curious about the dyneema slings in the alpine. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. And for reference, he's climbed El Cap a few more times than you. Then grab a "runner" aka "shoulder length sling," and two carabiners. zwwt vban idwh cxq rkwi spzw budea xvyklf vogr oegyj zfsahe jninllp nksljv rzym fhchp